Retinyl palmitate vs Partially Hydrogenated Oils: which is worse?

What is Retinyl palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate is a vitamin A ester used in anti-aging skincare and sunscreen.

What is Partially Hydrogenated Oils?

Partially hydrogenated oils (PHOs) are vegetable oils that have been treated with hydrogen gas in the presence of a catalyst to make them semi-solid at room temperature. This process creates artificial trans fatty acids (trans fats) as a byproduct. They were developed in the early 20th century as a cheaper, longer-lasting alternative to lard and butter.

Documented risks

Retinyl palmitate: The EU caps vitamin A levels over concerns it may accelerate skin damage in sunlight; the US does not restrict it.

Partially Hydrogenated Oils: Artificial trans fats (from PHOs) have the most well-established cardiovascular harm of any food ingredient ever banned. Multiple large meta-analyses have confirmed that trans fat consumption increases LDL ('bad') cholesterol, decreases HDL ('good') cholesterol, increases inflammatory markers, and significantly raises cardiovascular disease risk. The Harvard Nurses' Health Study and other landmark prospective studies in the 1990s identified trans fat as uniquely harmful — worse than saturated fat in its cardiovascular effects. A 2006 NEJM meta-analysis by Mozaffarian et al. estimated that eliminating artificial trans fats from the US diet could prevent 72,000 to 228,000 heart attacks per year and 30,000 to 100,000 coronary heart disease deaths annually. The WHO estimates that industrially produced trans fats cause over 500,000 cardiovascular deaths per year globally. The FDA revoked PHOs' GRAS status in 2015 based on this evidence, with compliance by 2018. Denmark banned artificial trans fats in 2003, the first country to do so, and observed a dramatic reduction in cardiovascular mortality in subsequent years.