Retinyl palmitate vs Polysorbate 80: which is worse?

What is Retinyl palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate is a vitamin A ester used in anti-aging skincare and sunscreen.

What is Polysorbate 80?

Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) is a synthetic nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid (from vegetable oils) through ethoxylation. It is widely used in food to keep water-based and oil-based ingredients uniformly mixed. Chemical formula: polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Documented risks

Retinyl palmitate: The EU caps vitamin A levels over concerns it may accelerate skin damage in sunlight; the US does not restrict it.

Polysorbate 80: Emerging research has raised concerns about polysorbate 80's effects on the gut. A landmark 2015 study in Nature (Chassaing et al.) found that dietary polysorbate 80 and polysorbate 60 at concentrations approaching food use levels promoted colitis and metabolic syndrome in genetically susceptible mice by disrupting the intestinal mucus layer and altering gut microbiome composition. The emulsifiers thinned the protective mucus layer, allowing bacteria to come into closer contact with gut epithelial cells and triggering inflammation. This study was a seminal contribution to gut health research, though it was conducted in mice and requires confirmation in humans. A 2020 follow-up study found that dietary emulsifiers including polysorbate 80 promoted gut inflammation and altered gut microbiome in human participants with Crohn's disease. People with inflammatory bowel disease may be most vulnerable to polysorbate 80's potential gut effects.