Ammonium Laureth Sulfate vs PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: which is worse?

What is Ammonium Laureth Sulfate?

Ammonium laureth sulfate is an anionic surfactant very similar in structure to SLES but uses an ammonium counterion instead of sodium. It produces abundant foam and provides excellent conditioning to the hair shaft during washing.

What is PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate?

PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier produced by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 80 moles of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and used primarily for its solubilizing and mild cleansing properties.

Documented risks

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate: Ammonium laureth sulfate shares a similar safety profile to SLES. The CIR has concluded it is safe for cosmetic use. Like SLES, it may contain trace 1,4-dioxane from ethoxylation, addressed by standard manufacturing controls. It is not a carcinogen or endocrine disruptor. Mild skin irritation is possible in sensitive individuals at high concentrations but is not a concern at typical use levels in rinse-off products.

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is considered safe at cosmetic use levels. As an ethoxylated compound, there is potential for trace 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide contamination from manufacturing; FDA and EU regulations set acceptable limits and modern manufacturing minimizes these impurities. No carcinogenic or endocrine-disrupting effects at cosmetic concentrations are established. The CIR has assessed sorbitan esters and polysorbates as safe.