Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate vs PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: which is worse?

What is Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate?

Ammonium lauryl sulfate is an anionic surfactant analogous to SLS but with an ammonium cation. It provides strong foaming and cleansing. It is slightly more water-soluble than SLS.

What is PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate?

PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier produced by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 80 moles of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and used primarily for its solubilizing and mild cleansing properties.

Documented risks

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate: ALS is slightly more irritating than ALES and comparable to SLS at equivalent concentrations. At typical shampoo concentrations (2–10%), it is considered safe by the CIR. It is not carcinogenic, not a hormone disruptor, and does not accumulate in body tissues. Prolonged skin contact at high concentrations can cause irritation; this is not a concern in rinse-off applications.

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is considered safe at cosmetic use levels. As an ethoxylated compound, there is potential for trace 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide contamination from manufacturing; FDA and EU regulations set acceptable limits and modern manufacturing minimizes these impurities. No carcinogenic or endocrine-disrupting effects at cosmetic concentrations are established. The CIR has assessed sorbitan esters and polysorbates as safe.