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Quick answer: Sodium Dehydroacetate carries the heavier risk profile. Caprylyl Glycol is allowed in the EU and allowed in the US; Sodium Dehydroacetate is restricted in the EU and allowed in the US.
| Property | Caprylyl Glycol | Sodium Dehydroacetate |
|---|---|---|
| EU status | Allowed | Restricted |
| US status | Allowed | Allowed |
| Risk level | low | low |
| Banned in | — | — |
| Restricted in | — | EU |
| Category | preservative | preservative |
| Where it hides | First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream, Drunk Elephant C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator | Various Acure products, Andalou Naturals Moisturizers, Puracy Natural Body Wash |
Caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol) is a multifunctional ingredient derived from caprylic acid (from coconut or palm kernel oil). It serves as a skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and preservative booster with direct antimicrobial activity.
Sodium dehydroacetate is the sodium salt of dehydroacetic acid, a broad-spectrum preservative effective against yeasts, molds, and some bacteria. It is frequently used in combination with benzyl alcohol as part of a natural-positioned preservative system.
Caprylyl Glycol: Caprylyl glycol is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. No carcinogenic, mutagenic, or endocrine-disrupting effects are documented. Mild skin sensitization is extremely rare. It is broadly compatible with sensitive skin and is accepted in many natural and clean beauty formulas.
Sodium Dehydroacetate: Sodium dehydroacetate is permitted in the EU at ≤0.6% (as acid) under Annex V of Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. The CIR and SCCS have reviewed it and confirmed safety at permitted concentrations. Potential for skin sensitization is low. No carcinogenic or endocrine effects are documented at cosmetic use levels.
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