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Quick answer: Sodium Dehydroacetate carries the heavier risk profile. Ethylhexylglycerin is allowed in the EU and allowed in the US; Sodium Dehydroacetate is restricted in the EU and allowed in the US.
| Property | Ethylhexylglycerin | Sodium Dehydroacetate |
|---|---|---|
| EU status | Allowed | Restricted |
| US status | Allowed | Allowed |
| Risk level | low | low |
| Banned in | — | — |
| Restricted in | — | EU |
| Category | preservative | preservative |
| Where it hides | Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Moisturizer, Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Serum, EltaMD UV Physical Sunscreen | Various Acure products, Andalou Naturals Moisturizers, Puracy Natural Body Wash |
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic multifunctional ingredient derived from glycerin and 2-ethyl-1-hexanol. It functions as both a skin-conditioning humectant and a preservative booster, inhibiting bacterial growth by interfering with microbial amino acid transport.
Sodium dehydroacetate is the sodium salt of dehydroacetic acid, a broad-spectrum preservative effective against yeasts, molds, and some bacteria. It is frequently used in combination with benzyl alcohol as part of a natural-positioned preservative system.
Ethylhexylglycerin: Ethylhexylglycerin is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. It is not classified as a preservative in the EU, so it does not face Annex V concentration limits. Contact sensitization is rare. There are no documented carcinogenic, mutagenic, or endocrine effects. It is widely accepted in clean beauty and natural cosmetics.
Sodium Dehydroacetate: Sodium dehydroacetate is permitted in the EU at ≤0.6% (as acid) under Annex V of Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. The CIR and SCCS have reviewed it and confirmed safety at permitted concentrations. Potential for skin sensitization is low. No carcinogenic or endocrine effects are documented at cosmetic use levels.
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