Isopropyl Palmitate vs Paraffinum Liquidum: which is worse?

What is Isopropyl Palmitate?

Isopropyl palmitate is a synthetic ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid (a fatty acid from palm oil). It is a lightweight, non-greasy emollient that spreads easily on skin and hair.

What is Paraffinum Liquidum?

Paraffinum liquidum is the INCI name for mineral oil — a highly refined, colorless, odorless petroleum-derived hydrocarbon liquid. It has been a staple cosmetic emollient for over a century.

Documented risks

Isopropyl Palmitate: Isopropyl palmitate is considered safe by the CIR. However, it is rated comedogenic (pore-clogging) on the comedogenicity scale — it has a comedogenicity rating of 4/5, meaning it is likely to trigger breakouts in acne-prone individuals. It is not a carcinogen, hormone disruptor, or systemic toxin. Adverse effects are limited to acne and folliculitis in susceptible users.

Paraffinum Liquidum: Cosmetic-grade paraffinum liquidum (highly refined mineral oil) is considered safe by the CIR and FDA. The EU restricts use based on refining grade, specifically prohibiting inadequately refined mineral oils that may contain carcinogenic PAH compounds. Highly refined grades (used in cosmetics globally) have no identified carcinogenic risk. Mineral oil does not penetrate intact skin and is not absorbed systemically. It is non-comedogenic at low concentrations; higher concentrations may contribute to congestion in acne-prone skin. Inhalation of mineral oil mist in occupational settings is a separate concern not applicable to cosmetic topical use.