Isopropyl Palmitate vs Petrolatum: which is worse?

What is Isopropyl Palmitate?

Isopropyl palmitate is a synthetic ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid (a fatty acid from palm oil). It is a lightweight, non-greasy emollient that spreads easily on skin and hair.

What is Petrolatum?

Petrolatum is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons derived from petroleum refining. It forms an occlusive barrier on the skin surface, sealing in moisture and protecting against external irritants. It has been used in skincare since 1872.

Documented risks

Isopropyl Palmitate: Isopropyl palmitate is considered safe by the CIR. However, it is rated comedogenic (pore-clogging) on the comedogenicity scale — it has a comedogenicity rating of 4/5, meaning it is likely to trigger breakouts in acne-prone individuals. It is not a carcinogen, hormone disruptor, or systemic toxin. Adverse effects are limited to acne and folliculitis in susceptible users.

Petrolatum: Fully refined white petrolatum (as used in cosmetics) is considered safe by the FDA and CIR, and is an FDA-approved OTC skin protectant. The EU restricts petrolatum unless full refining history is known due to concerns about polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in inadequately refined grades. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum in the US undergoes extensive refining that removes PAHs. It does not penetrate the skin, is non-comedogenic in pure form, and has no evidence of systemic toxicity or endocrine disruption at cosmetic use.