Ammonium Laureth Sulfate vs Polysorbate 20: which is worse?

What is Ammonium Laureth Sulfate?

Ammonium laureth sulfate is an anionic surfactant very similar in structure to SLES but uses an ammonium counterion instead of sodium. It produces abundant foam and provides excellent conditioning to the hair shaft during washing.

What is Polysorbate 20?

Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier made by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 20 units of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and widely used to solubilize oils and fragrances in water-based formulas.

Documented risks

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate: Ammonium laureth sulfate shares a similar safety profile to SLES. The CIR has concluded it is safe for cosmetic use. Like SLES, it may contain trace 1,4-dioxane from ethoxylation, addressed by standard manufacturing controls. It is not a carcinogen or endocrine disruptor. Mild skin irritation is possible in sensitive individuals at high concentrations but is not a concern at typical use levels in rinse-off products.

Polysorbate 20: Polysorbate 20 is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. Like other PEG-based ingredients, trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide may be present from manufacturing, but these are regulated by FDA and EU to acceptable levels. There is no meaningful evidence of carcinogenicity or endocrine disruption at typical cosmetic use concentrations. The CIR has reviewed polysorbates as a group and concluded they are safe for cosmetic use.