Is Polysorbate 20 Banned? EU vs US Status, Risks & Where It Hides
TL;DR: Polysorbate 20 is allowed in the EU but allowed in the US (surfactant).
INCI name POLYSORBATE 20. Also called Tween 20. CAS 9005-64-5.
Other names: Tween 20, PEG-20 Sorbitan Monolaurate
Is Polysorbate 20 banned in the EU?
| EU status | Allowed |
|---|---|
| US status | Allowed |
| Risk level | low |
| Where it shows up | Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner, Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Thayers Witch Hazel Toner |
| CAS number | 9005-64-5 |
What is Polysorbate 20?
Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier made by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 20 units of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and widely used to solubilize oils and fragrances in water-based formulas.
Why is Polysorbate 20 used in personal-care products?
Used to solubilize essential oils, fragrance oils, and other oil-soluble ingredients into aqueous systems such as toners, serums, and mists without cloudiness.
Is Polysorbate 20 dangerous? Documented risks
Polysorbate 20 is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. Like other PEG-based ingredients, trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide may be present from manufacturing, but these are regulated by FDA and EU to acceptable levels. There is no meaningful evidence of carcinogenicity or endocrine disruption at typical cosmetic use concentrations. The CIR has reviewed polysorbates as a group and concluded they are safe for cosmetic use.
Products that may contain Polysorbate 20
How to avoid Polysorbate 20: safer alternatives
Coco-glucoside or olivem 300 (olivoyl PEG-6 esters) for a more natural-origin solubilizer.
Frequently asked questions about Polysorbate 20
Is polysorbate 20 the same as polysorbate 80?
They are structurally similar (both are ethoxylated sorbitan esters) but polysorbate 20 uses lauric acid while polysorbate 80 uses oleic acid. Both are non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers with similar safety profiles.
Does polysorbate 20 contain 1,4-dioxane?
Trace amounts may be present as a manufacturing byproduct, but FDA and EU regulations require these to be minimized. Reputable manufacturers use purification steps to keep levels well within safety limits.
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Sources
- CIR Safety Assessment of Polysorbates — Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- EWG Skin Deep: Polysorbate-20 — Environmental Working Group
Our scores are never influenced by brands. Last updated 6/11/2026.