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Answer: Polysorbate 20 is not currently banned worldwide, but health agencies have flagged concerns. The FDA still allows it in US cosmetics and personal-care products. Risk level: low. Commonly found in: Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner, Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Thayers Witch Hazel Toner.
TL;DR: Polysorbate 20 is allowed in the EU but allowed in the US (surfactant).
Reviewed for clarity & usefulness by the BannedPantry Parent Panel
INCI name POLYSORBATE 20. Also called Tween 20. CAS 9005-64-5.
Other names: Tween 20, PEG-20 Sorbitan Monolaurate
| EU status | Allowed |
|---|---|
| US status | Allowed |
| Risk level | low |
| Where it shows up | Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner, Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Thayers Witch Hazel Toner |
| CAS number | 9005-64-5 |
Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier made by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 20 units of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and widely used to solubilize oils and fragrances in water-based formulas.
Used to solubilize essential oils, fragrance oils, and other oil-soluble ingredients into aqueous systems such as toners, serums, and mists without cloudiness.
Polysorbate 20 is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. Like other PEG-based ingredients, trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide may be present from manufacturing, but these are regulated by FDA and EU to acceptable levels. There is no meaningful evidence of carcinogenicity or endocrine disruption at typical cosmetic use concentrations. The CIR has reviewed polysorbates as a group and concluded they are safe for cosmetic use.
For educational use only. This page summarizes the regulatory status of Polysorbate 20with citations to the primary sources below. It is not medical advice. Regulatory status is not the same as a proven health effect — read the cited sources for their exact wording, and consult a doctor for decisions about your or your family's health.
Coco-glucoside or olivem 300 (olivoyl PEG-6 esters) for a more natural-origin solubilizer.
They are structurally similar (both are ethoxylated sorbitan esters) but polysorbate 20 uses lauric acid while polysorbate 80 uses oleic acid. Both are non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers with similar safety profiles.
Trace amounts may be present as a manufacturing byproduct, but FDA and EU regulations require these to be minimized. Reputable manufacturers use purification steps to keep levels well within safety limits.
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