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Quick answer: Both score equally on our risk model. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is allowed in the EU and allowed in the US; Polysorbate 20 is allowed in the EU and allowed in the US.
| Property | Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate | Polysorbate 20 |
|---|---|---|
| EU status | Allowed | Allowed |
| US status | Allowed | Allowed |
| Risk level | low | low |
| Banned in | — | — |
| Restricted in | — | — |
| Category | surfactant | surfactant |
| Where it hides | Aussie Miracle Moist Shampoo, Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoo | Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner, Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Thayers Witch Hazel Toner |
Ammonium lauryl sulfate is an anionic surfactant analogous to SLS but with an ammonium cation. It provides strong foaming and cleansing. It is slightly more water-soluble than SLS.
Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier made by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 20 units of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and widely used to solubilize oils and fragrances in water-based formulas.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate: ALS is slightly more irritating than ALES and comparable to SLS at equivalent concentrations. At typical shampoo concentrations (2–10%), it is considered safe by the CIR. It is not carcinogenic, not a hormone disruptor, and does not accumulate in body tissues. Prolonged skin contact at high concentrations can cause irritation; this is not a concern in rinse-off applications.
Polysorbate 20: Polysorbate 20 is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. Like other PEG-based ingredients, trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide may be present from manufacturing, but these are regulated by FDA and EU to acceptable levels. There is no meaningful evidence of carcinogenicity or endocrine disruption at typical cosmetic use concentrations. The CIR has reviewed polysorbates as a group and concluded they are safe for cosmetic use.
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