Paraffinum Liquidum vs Squalane: which is worse?

What is Paraffinum Liquidum?

Paraffinum liquidum is the INCI name for mineral oil — a highly refined, colorless, odorless petroleum-derived hydrocarbon liquid. It has been a staple cosmetic emollient for over a century.

What is Squalane?

Squalane is a saturated, stable derivative of squalene — a lipid naturally found in human sebum and historically extracted from shark liver oil. Modern cosmetic squalane is predominantly plant-derived (from sugarcane, amaranth, or olives) and is hydrogenated from squalene to make it shelf-stable.

Documented risks

Paraffinum Liquidum: Cosmetic-grade paraffinum liquidum (highly refined mineral oil) is considered safe by the CIR and FDA. The EU restricts use based on refining grade, specifically prohibiting inadequately refined mineral oils that may contain carcinogenic PAH compounds. Highly refined grades (used in cosmetics globally) have no identified carcinogenic risk. Mineral oil does not penetrate intact skin and is not absorbed systemically. It is non-comedogenic at low concentrations; higher concentrations may contribute to congestion in acne-prone skin. Inhalation of mineral oil mist in occupational settings is a separate concern not applicable to cosmetic topical use.

Squalane: Squalane has an outstanding safety profile with essentially no identified risks at cosmetic use levels. The CIR has confirmed its safety. It is non-comedogenic, non-irritating, and suitable for sensitive, acne-prone, and barrier-compromised skin. No carcinogenic or endocrine effects are documented. Sustainability is a concern if derived from shark liver oil (now rare); ethical consumers should verify plant-derived sources.