Petrolatum vs Squalane: which is worse?

What is Petrolatum?

Petrolatum is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons derived from petroleum refining. It forms an occlusive barrier on the skin surface, sealing in moisture and protecting against external irritants. It has been used in skincare since 1872.

What is Squalane?

Squalane is a saturated, stable derivative of squalene — a lipid naturally found in human sebum and historically extracted from shark liver oil. Modern cosmetic squalane is predominantly plant-derived (from sugarcane, amaranth, or olives) and is hydrogenated from squalene to make it shelf-stable.

Documented risks

Petrolatum: Fully refined white petrolatum (as used in cosmetics) is considered safe by the FDA and CIR, and is an FDA-approved OTC skin protectant. The EU restricts petrolatum unless full refining history is known due to concerns about polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in inadequately refined grades. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum in the US undergoes extensive refining that removes PAHs. It does not penetrate the skin, is non-comedogenic in pure form, and has no evidence of systemic toxicity or endocrine disruption at cosmetic use.

Squalane: Squalane has an outstanding safety profile with essentially no identified risks at cosmetic use levels. The CIR has confirmed its safety. It is non-comedogenic, non-irritating, and suitable for sensitive, acne-prone, and barrier-compromised skin. No carcinogenic or endocrine effects are documented. Sustainability is a concern if derived from shark liver oil (now rare); ethical consumers should verify plant-derived sources.