Polysorbate 20 vs Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: which is worse?

What is Polysorbate 20?

Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier made by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with 20 units of ethylene oxide. It is highly water-soluble and widely used to solubilize oils and fragrances in water-based formulas.

What is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate?

Sodium lauryl sulfate is an anionic surfactant derived from lauryl alcohol (from coconut or palm oil). It is one of the oldest and most-studied cosmetic surfactants, prized for its powerful foaming and degreasing properties. Unlike SLES, it is not ethoxylated.

Documented risks

Polysorbate 20: Polysorbate 20 is considered safe at cosmetic use concentrations. Like other PEG-based ingredients, trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide may be present from manufacturing, but these are regulated by FDA and EU to acceptable levels. There is no meaningful evidence of carcinogenicity or endocrine disruption at typical cosmetic use concentrations. The CIR has reviewed polysorbates as a group and concluded they are safe for cosmetic use.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: SLS is safe at cosmetic use concentrations per the CIR Expert Panel. It is more irritating than SLES to skin and mucous membranes, particularly at concentrations above 2% with prolonged contact; this is why most rinse-off products keep it at 1–2% or opt for SLES. It can disrupt the skin barrier transiently, which is why some people with canker sores or eczema avoid SLS toothpastes and cleansers. It is not carcinogenic, not a hormone disruptor, and is not absorbed systemically in meaningful amounts. It biodegrades rapidly in the environment.